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Sample round one should end arguments, not start them. Print this checklist and work through it before the first proto leaves the pattern room.

Spec lock

1. Size chart signed — every measurement with tolerance (body length ±1 cm, chest ±1.5 cm is normal knitwear territory). 2. Weight tolerance — GSM range per fabric, confirmed against a swatch, not a datasheet. 3. Colour standard — Pantone TPX for solids; for heathers, a physical lab-dip reference.

Construction sheet

4. Bill of materials — fabric, rib, drawcord, eyelet, label thread, each with supplier and unit cost. Hidden BOM items are where quotes grow later. 5. Seam & stitch spec — twin-needle sides, tape on shoulder, SPI minimum.

Process gates

6. Logo proof before bulk fabric — position measured from HPS (high point shoulder) on the proto, approved in writing. 7. Wash test protocol — sample washed at the end-user temperature before fit approval; shrinkage and colour-fastness judged after, never before. 8. Pack spec — fold, poly bag warning text, carton count, gross weight target.

Commercial

9. Payment gate on inspection standard — define AQL (2.5 major is the garment norm) and who pays rework. 10. Lead-time buffer — your launch date minus 3 weeks = the factory promise date; anything tighter is a rush fee wearing a disguise.

Round one samples cost money; a complete checklist makes round one also cost less, because it removes the third sample run. Ready to start with a spec that is actually complete? Send it here.

Once you have the blank, the logo decides how your piece reads — and how much it costs at your quantity. Here is the honest trade-off, method by method.

Embroidery

The classic. Thread on 380gsm+ fleece looks premium and survives 50+ washes. The catch is setup: each design needs its own digitised file and stabiliser plan, so per-unit cost falls steeply with quantity. On a 30-piece run it is the most expensive option; at 300 pieces it becomes the cheapest per logo. Avoid embroidery on thin performance jersey — the puckering shows.

Puff print

Raised 3D screen print, the streetwear staple. Reads like embroidery at a glance, costs like screen print at low quantity. Durability sits between flat print and embroidery; expect softening after ~20 washes. Needs a dedicated screen per colour.

DTG (direct-to-garment)

Inkjet on fabric. No setup, no minimum, photographic detail. Per-unit price is roughly flat, which makes it the winner under 50 pieces and for multi-design drops. On dark fleece it needs a white underbase, which slightly stiffens the print hand feel.

Sublimation / transfer

All-over colour only works on polyester fabric — sublimation ink bonds to synthetic fibres, not cotton. For cotton-heavy fleece, a cut-and-sew panel approach or printed transfer is the realistic path. Watch crack lines when transfers are applied over seams.

The 100-piece rule of thumb

Under ~60 pieces: DTG. Around 100: DTG or puff, price is close; pick by hand feel. Over 200: embroidery usually wins on unit economics and perceived value. Any method with a chest logo + back print combo, price the screens as one artwork package.

Send us your artwork and quantity on the quote form — we return a three-method cost comparison the same working day.

Weight tells you more about a hoodie than most specs sheets admit. Here is the buyer-side checklist we recommend before you commit a first order to any factory.

1. GSM is a range, not a number

“380gsm fleece” from one mill and “380gsm fleece” from another can hand-feel completely different: the number is fabric weight per square metre, while hand feel depends on yarn twist, brushing depth and blend. Ask for the actual construction (e.g. 32s/2 cotton-poly, brushed back) and a physical swatch card, not just a GSM claim.

2. Shrinkage test before anything else

Wash one sample blank at 40°C, dry it warm, measure. Anything beyond ±5% length will make your size chart a lie after one retail wash. Good mills publish shrinkage numbers; insist on them in writing.

3. Stitching geometry

Count stitches per inch on shoulder seams and check whether side seams are twin-needle. Single-needle side seams on a heavyweight fleece are the most common cost-cutting shortcut that buyers only notice at complaint stage.

4. Cuff and hood hardware

Knitted cuffs should recover to 95% of original width after stretching. Hood cords should be tipped and knotted — a cord that pulls through the eyelet in one wash is a refund waiting to happen.

5. Dye lot policy

Ask how the factory handles colour between lots. Dark navy from lot 1 and lot 3 can sit visibly different on your shelf. Get a ΔE tolerance in writing (ΔE < 1.5 is a fair commercial standard for solid colours).

6. Logo method changes the price

Embroidery, puff print, DTG and sublimation each have different tooling costs and minimum run logic. Send your artwork early and ask for a comparison table across the four methods for your quantity — a 100-piece order often lands cheaper with DTG than embroidery simply because of setup amortisation.

7. The freight line item

Ex-works price is not your landed cost. For orders above roughly 150 kg, air freight starts to dominate your margin; ask the factory for a sea-freight DDP quote for comparison, even if you sample by air. A supplier who can produce both numbers quickly usually has real export experience.

When you are ready, send us your spec — we answer with a comparison of construction options within 12 hours.

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