Weight tells you more about a hoodie than most specs sheets admit. Here is the buyer-side checklist we recommend before you commit a first order to any factory.
1. GSM is a range, not a number
“380gsm fleece” from one mill and “380gsm fleece” from another can hand-feel completely different: the number is fabric weight per square metre, while hand feel depends on yarn twist, brushing depth and blend. Ask for the actual construction (e.g. 32s/2 cotton-poly, brushed back) and a physical swatch card, not just a GSM claim.
2. Shrinkage test before anything else
Wash one sample blank at 40°C, dry it warm, measure. Anything beyond ±5% length will make your size chart a lie after one retail wash. Good mills publish shrinkage numbers; insist on them in writing.
3. Stitching geometry
Count stitches per inch on shoulder seams and check whether side seams are twin-needle. Single-needle side seams on a heavyweight fleece are the most common cost-cutting shortcut that buyers only notice at complaint stage.
4. Cuff and hood hardware
Knitted cuffs should recover to 95% of original width after stretching. Hood cords should be tipped and knotted — a cord that pulls through the eyelet in one wash is a refund waiting to happen.
5. Dye lot policy
Ask how the factory handles colour between lots. Dark navy from lot 1 and lot 3 can sit visibly different on your shelf. Get a ΔE tolerance in writing (ΔE < 1.5 is a fair commercial standard for solid colours).
6. Logo method changes the price
Embroidery, puff print, DTG and sublimation each have different tooling costs and minimum run logic. Send your artwork early and ask for a comparison table across the four methods for your quantity — a 100-piece order often lands cheaper with DTG than embroidery simply because of setup amortisation.
7. The freight line item
Ex-works price is not your landed cost. For orders above roughly 150 kg, air freight starts to dominate your margin; ask the factory for a sea-freight DDP quote for comparison, even if you sample by air. A supplier who can produce both numbers quickly usually has real export experience.
When you are ready, send us your spec — we answer with a comparison of construction options within 12 hours.
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